Exchange in Sweden: Budapest

Eastern Europe has many lesser known treasures to behold. Western Europe is much more famous, and attracts a much larger and more diverse population of travellers, but I cherish memories from Eastern Europe that are equally as great, if not superior to those from Western Europe. Thus far I've discovered some parts of Poland that surprised me, but this trip to Budapest, Hungary has really shown me the beauty of this part of the world.

Myself and the Wonderful Caroline Mowat looking out over Pest from Buda.

Budapest is actually a combination of two previously separate cities: Buda and Pest. In 1849, Buda on the west and Pest on the east were physically joined across the Danube by the Széchenyi Chain Bridge; the chain bridge is in the background of the picture above. In the modern day, there are nine bridges that fluently connect these land masses over the second largest river in Europe (Danube). The frequency of these bridges was very much appreciated as no more than twenty minutes was needed to traverse from one shore to the other.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

From my experience, there is an abrudpt distinction between the two parts of Budapest. On the flat east, Pest represents tourism, nightlife, shopping, dining, and most forms of entertainment. On the hilly west, Buda houses the wealthy residential areas, magnificent panaromic views of the city, and some cultural experience. I would think that short term visitors would keep to the east, but there is much to experience over the bridge to the west.

My first day in Budapest, as in most new cities, I spent wandering around with a map in my pocket for sheer back up. I enjoy getting lost in a new city, as it really takes hold of your senses and is the quickest way to become intune with the local vibe. These first few pictures will showcase some things I came across on my first day exploring the Pest side. I'll admit that my memory of individual buildings has begun to fade in detail, so that many of these will have no tagline as I simply do not recall the purpose of each structure.

I believe this was a residential home. Not only did it possess a grandeur size and epic construction, but it was located only a few minutes walking from city park and within good range of downtown.

I believe this to be just outside of the core of downtown. The architectural design is very impressive. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Around lunch time on the day Caroline met up with me, we were walking around Buda with a loaf of bread, some assorted meats, and cheese, looking for a place to have lunch and catch up. This picture represents the perfect scenario that we stumbled upon.

CITY PARK

I visited city park twice during my 5 day stay in Budapest, on my first day wandering around Pest I took an extensive tour, and then a second look during a city walking tour with Caroline.

A geometric monument that welcomes visitors to the park from the east side. At the front, where the cement is broken, the columns are tightly packed and prestinely maintained. As one travels toward the greenery in the background, the columns begin to disperse, shorten, and degrade in quality.

Illustrated is the transition from shiny polished steel (guess of material) to the rustic, weathered columns.

A view overlooking the back of the geometric monument. I call it thus becuase I'm sure there is some pattern to the placement and growth of these columns.

The main entrance to the park is marked by the Heroes Square. Hundary was founded in the year 896 A.D. After one thousand years of existence, the Millenium Exhibition saw to the construction of memorial monuments throughout Budapest to commemorate the origin of this country. The Heroes Square was one of these monuments.

An overview of the square. Lining the top of the semi-circular constructions are statues representative of Work and Welfare(left), War (mid left) and Peace (mid right), and Knowledge and Glory (right).

In the foreground are statues representing the leaders of the seven tribes which founded Hungary in 896 A.D.

Important historic Hungarian figures line the semi-circular monument. Some appear as victorious warriors atop a crowd of vicious struggle.

Others are represented in political success to much praise from the commoners below.

The city park in Budapest was mediocre in terms of natural scenery, but what it lacked in greenery it made up for in buildings and contructs. Vajdahunyad Castle showcases the beauty in the man-made additions to the park. The castle designed with Romanic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural stylings was originally built of wood and cardboard, but later reconstructed of brick and stone. It was cast as part of the Millenium Exhibition.

Entrance to Vajdahunyad Castle

View from under the gate. The wording translates to "Hungarian Agricultural Museum" which is now housed within the castle walls.

I'm not going to pretend to know anything about the difference between the four architectural styles found in the castle, but I'm sure they are illustrated below.

(Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Within the castle walls. This building is now the museum souvenir shop.

Statue of Anonymus who wrote of the ancient Hungarians during the 12th Century. The statue was designed to truly make this individual anonymous by placing his face in constant shadow. I had to use a flashlight to see his eyes, at which point I was convinced he was going to spring to life.

The final attraction of city park, other than the zoo, is the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath. Apparently, it is usual for citizens of Budapest to visit a local bath at least once a week. Obviously a culture who enjoys the importance of relaxation and winding down as there are baths spread throughout the city. The bath found in city park is the most popular, and appears to be the most elaborate with both indoor and outdoor facilities. All supplied water comes from two thermal springs approximately 75 degrees Celcius and spread to the 15 indoor pools and 3 outdoor pools. Originally, Caroline and I were going to visit this bath for its multitude of recommendations. However, we found the outside portion to be very busy and reminiscent of an amusement park, which to us does not inspire relaxation. Nonetheless, the building was interesting to tour.

Széchenyi Thermal Bath

Inside the walls of the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

The populated exterior pools are divided by water temperature. In the closest pool are two seperate stations set up for some relaxing and stimulating games of chess. One may be seen on the left side below the blue canopy. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Fountain within the entrance of the thermal bath. The little dude is pissing some spring water, while the woman spits the enriched liquid.

For a change of scenery from the busy thermal bath in city park, Caroline and I decided to instead visit the oldest bath in Budapest. From what we saw of the Széchenyi Thermal Bath, I'd say that the bath we chose was very much the opposite atmosphere. The Király Bath was built in the second half of the sixteenth century and is of Turkish form and function. In a traditional manner, the baths are open to men and women on alternate days. Caroline and I were fortunate enough to visit the baths on Sunday, the only day when the baths are open to both men and women. I won't attempt to describe the interior of this bath, but I will say that it housed 4 baths from 21 to 40 degrees Celcius. It also maintained two dry saunas and one wet sauna at a maximum of 70 degrees Celcius. One could literally pass from one pool to the next in incrementing temperature and then enter the hot saunas for a very dizzying effect, as I experienced. The pools were extremely relaxing, and really made me appreciate water, and all that it can do for our body.

Chemical analysis of the thermal spring water supplied to the Király Bath. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

On to a busier environment, the market in Budapest is housed in an old train station where locals may purchase their groceries and tourists can find anything their hearts desire on the top floor.

Me trying to decide which decorative flask to purchase. Sometimes though it's fun just to haggle with the merchants. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Inside the market. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

The main floor of the market to buy produce, meats, and bread. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

(Photo by Caroline Mowat)

This next series of photos encase the best memories of this trip. Caroline and I took two separate trips hiking some of the Buda hills where we captured some magnificent views of this wonderful city.

Crossing one of the bridges from Pest to Buda to begin our journey. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Looking north toward the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

A view of Pest halfway up the hill. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

An overview of Budapest by day. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

A closer look at the multitude of connection points between Buda (left) and Pest (right).

I'm impressed how much a place can change in appearance by varying the amount of light captured by the camera. Somewhere during this trip I became much more interested in photography, and am slowly becoming an addict. This picture may have inspired these feelings. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Budapest by night. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

s night fell we were able to see the transition from the sun-lit city to one illuminated by electricity. Below are some successful captures of this beautiful sight.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge in the foreground. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Illuminated building was waving the Canadian flag. (Photo by me, with Caroline's camera)

The pictures to follow were taken during our first ascent of the Buda hills.

Me caught mid sentence as Caroline documented our hike. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

A nice view of the hills that we made our path. Somehow the Széchenyi Chain Bridge seems to appear in many of these photos. I'm noticing its importance moreso now looking back than when I was actually in Budapest.

This represents a model of Budapest prior to the first bridge being built, so sometime before 1849. The statues of the king and likely his bride seem to tell that the bridge was created to join these two together in life. However, legend tells differently. While the king was very ill, the prince was unable to visit his dying father as they resided on opposite sides of the Danube. Frustrated by this disconnect, the prince issued construction of the bridge. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

They appear so close. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Caroline trying to come between the lovers.

During our summit we encountered a circle of statues representing the important religious figures of our history. Included were Jesus Christ, Siddhattha Gotama or the Supreme Buddha, Mahatma Gandhi, and others whom I've heard of but know nothing about. Below are some of these figures cast in stone.

(Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Peaceful Impression (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Respectful Admirer

We also found a wicked awesome tree.

I apologize for the length of this post for those who have made it this far. My computer is back in Canada and so this was the only way to store the photos for me to write about. Removing them from this blog may delete them from existence.

Torch-bearing statue. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

"What big mustache you have" (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

The courtyard behind the statue.

One great thing about exploring Eastern Europe is that common expences are significantly reduced in price. Our living and eating costs were fairly minimal, while drinking was still my greatest expense. It seemed fit to seize the low cost opportunity while in Budapest, so Caroline and I indulged on our last night. We went to a really nice restaurant, very much underdressed for the atmosphere, but were able to wine and dine for a total of 28 euro. Afterwards we took a step further into classy living and went to see the Budapest Orchestra play in the local opera house. Our tickets, totally nose-bleed, cost something around a toonie. For much of the show we could see only the cellos and bass section, and then moving closer to the balcony had a complete view of the band and conductor. In terms of audio quality, our section received great levels. Regardless, the ticket price was well worth an interior look.

Budapest Opera House (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Budapest Opera House entrance. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Some unrelated photos to follow:

Portion of the Buda hills in rubble. Unseen in this picture are pathways through the stone work that may have been used in times of war.

Comparing the old and new brickwork.

In this photo I was a subject for multiple camera holders. As I was about to leave my stance, this man standing on the ledge in front of me motioned for me to stay as I was. At sometime, somewhere in the world some group of strangers will maybe talk about me. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Parliament of the Republic of Hungary (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

St. Stephen's Basilica

View of a street leading to St. Stephen's Basilica. The Basilica is behind whoever took this picture.

Inside St. Stephen's Basilica (all photos by Caroline Mowat)

View of the Parliament from St. Stephen's Basilica.

Budapest Great Synagogue. We pulled an American tourist move and just took a picture and moved on. I wish we had stepped inside as I now know this is the second largest synagogue in Europe. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

The little brown door to a wonderful tea house. We owe some great patience and the recommendation of our friend from the Carpe Noctem Vitae hostel. Upon walking in and not speaking the local language, the host assumed us lost and gave off a rejecting tone. But once we requested some tea and sheesha, she and her partner turned very friendly and accomodating. (Photo by Caroline Mowat)

Inside the tea house. Wonderful decorations.

Since the land above ground in Budapest was so nice, may as well check out the scenery underneath right? Well that's just what I did.

Our caving instructor during his briefing time. A quirky guy, he relaxed the atmosphere by making a joke about fornicating with an animal, said that was his preference. People who are capable of spending weeks on end underground are in the least a bit strange, so I couldn't really tell if he was joking. I hope for his sake that he was.

One foot on the podium for the theater room. Each room had a name corresponding with the interior shape. This one had a stage and large audience space, a rock curtain, and stage exit (where others are about to venture). The podium is in the center of the stage.

I noticed how dusty it was only when I took pictures. Otherwise it wasn't an issue.

I remember as a kid standing in the hallway of my house trying to climb upwards using my hands and feet. I was sadly unable to, but our instructor here demonstrated his learned technique to climb spaces underground. In many cases during his years of exploration, he would be faced with a wall in which the only way to overcome this obstacle was by this method. Although not shown in this picture, there is a drop of about fifteen to twenty feet below him, a threat small by his terms.

Emotional speech roughly halfway through our journey about the friends that our instructor has lossed during expeditions and the few times he has come face to face with death when a bold move happened to spare his fate.